Tuesday, February 4, 2014

Dropping Weight in a Storm

Rake to reduce roof weight

Source: avalanche-snow.com

Snow, Ice and wind loads can cause roof system failures in older poultry housing.  To combat heavy snows, the use of a roof rake to pull down snow off a roof can be employed.  In my Feb. 11, 2010 post, I discussed the use of a home-made rake.  While watching one of my favorite home improvement shows, I saw another design that cuts the snow making it easier to move than a plowing rake.  For examples take a look at:

http://www.minnsnowta.com/index.html

http://www.avalanche-snow.com/index.asp

After a heavy snow, you should check roofing systems for any breaks in support bracing and rafters.  Why you may have survived this storm the next one may finish off your your roof.  Be Safe and check your housing.

Where trade names appear, no discrimination is intended, and no endorsement by the author & Penn State Cooperative Extension is implied.

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Staying Dry in Cold Weather



It is all in the air.

Picture: allaboutdamp.com
One of the myths I run into is that is it is very hard to keep a poultry house dry in cold weather.  What could be said is that is it is hard to keep a house dry and warm in the winter.  The core problem is that you fight water all winter long if you do not understand what is in the air.

As air cools, it loses its ability to hold water.  Hot air on the other hand, will hold a large volume of water as vapor or if it gets hot enough - steam.  This is why a dehumidifier will collect water as it removes water from the air by cooling.  Knowing this, a farmer can dry his litter enough to control wet spots and therefore insect levels during the winter before they become a problem in the spring.

Water is being created in a poultry house every day.  For each pound of feed, two pounds of water is consumed.  Some of this will pass as liquid water in the manure, but other is given off as vapor from the respiratory system. Therefore, to best use this principle, the farmer should vent his house to remove the hot moist air and bring in cool air to mix with the hotter room air.  Circulation fans within the house can help with mixing the air, as well as attic ventilators and inlet baffles that helps pre-heat the air before dumping into the room.  As the outside air warms up it will remove water out of the surrounding area and begin to dry the manure.  A constant amount of room air needs to be vented in order to help dry the house.  If condensation is seen in the house, it is under ventilated or the air is not mixing properly.  The use of hand held wind meters, surveyors tape and other aids could help determine where air is flowing in the house.

Smaller flocks also need to ventilate in winter to keep bedding dry.  If necessary, a heat lamp will provide the additional heat to help the cool air absorb the needed moisture that is to be removed from the house.  Watch the litter conditions to determine if further venting is needed.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Home Egg Quality

Keeping fresh eggs safe at home

Source: Wikipedia

I do from time to time scan other sites regarding the home flock.  One of the biggest debates is whether to wash eggs at home or not.  The USDA does not recommend washing eggs at home because they make the assumption that US consumers are buying eggs from grocery stores that sell farm washed eggs.  Eggs washed once should not have to be washed again.  But, what about local farm eggs?  Eggs do have natural defenses against bacterial intrusion, but that is only for a short period of time.  Heavy soiling of eggs can contribute to bacterial contamination, and this is why washing is done.  Sanding eggs to remove dried manure and urates actually breaks down the outer bloom of the egg and could lead to contamination.  Improper washing can also lead to contamination of eggs through thermal checking and osmotic pressures.  So, if you have to wash eggs, be sure that the room temperature eggs are washed quickly in soapy water that is 10 degrees hotter than the egg temperature.  Rinse water should be 10 degrees hotter than the wash water.  Short durations in each bath should do the trick without a drop in egg quality.  Use a cool blow drier to remove any excess rinse water.

In any case, eggs should always be refrigerated.  Refrigeration  is the best method for keeping any bacteria from growing too fast.  If you eat home raised eggs on a regular basis you should do so to keep the supply in the refrigerator fresh.  The lowest portion of the refrigerator is the coldest, so store eggs there in a covered egg carton or bowl for protection from food spills and bumping.

More info at:
USDA Food Safety - Eggs